Alabama and Mississippi

Saturday 20^th November

Alabama – The Heart of Dixie. 


 Ever since I was a little girl I have always wanted to visit Alabama.  Maybe something to do with the Tom Sawyer books I read at school or the movie To Kill a Mockingbird.  Either way, it was nothing like I was expecting.  The coast line was incredibly modern with so many high rise buildings and condos.






  





On recommendation we went to Billy’s Sea Food on Bon Secour River. 

 After reading his sign “Do not drink water - fish crap in it”  I felt reassured he was a top sea food entrepreneur. 

Went to the famous “Tacky Jacks” for lunch.  We sat on the deck, perched on high wooden bar stools, overlooking the Gulf of Mexico.

Managed to chew our way through a plate of Alligator Tails!   I don’t know what all the fuss is about, tastes just like chicken!!    

Spent an hour or so at Fort Morgan, an historic landmark and site of the Civil War Battle of Mobile Bay.   In 1864, after a 3 week land-sea siege Fort Morgan fell to the Union.  

Frank Brown’s International Songwriters Festival – the lovely lady at the Visitor’s Centre said we must go to this 10 day rip-roaring event.  We had no idea what (or who) Frank Brown was all about..….but what the heck.   The festival was being held at 26 venues all along the Florida and Alabama coast. 

The “dive” we chose was called Flora-Bama that was smack bang on the state border (hence it’s name).  Not sure what happened to the ceiling (maybe Katrina) but it had an unusual circus tent acting as a roof.   Every inch of the place was covered in graffiti and just above eye level were 3 ropes sagging with the weight of some well worn brassiers!!  Ha!   (The mind boggles at how they got there. Unfortunately they were not added to that night! Al.)

The music was rough and gutsy and so was the clientele.  

Lulu’s at Homeport Marina - The night was still young so we felt the need to patronize Lulu’s.  Sister of singer Jimmy Buffett, Lucy Buffett seems to be just as famous as her brother in her own right.   Just 6 months ago I had no idea who Jimmy Buffett was and now I’m right up with Parrothead fever!!

The Restaurant has it’s own boat mooring and is located in a beautiful spot to watch the sunset from the outdoor deck.  The grounds have artificial sand to create a beach party theme with hundreds of fairy lights, palm trees and candy colour furniture.   Not really our scene!!  

The following day we ended up at the USS Alabama Battleship Memorial Park.

  For only $12 we were able to climb all over the Battleship deck and man the gun turrets.  Once inside we struggled up and down ladders and through small hatches and thoroughly enjoyed the floating museum.        

Submarine USS Drum was also in the same park.  She was commissioned in November 1941 and earned 12 Battle Stars during World War II.    The torpedo room was amazing.  Again we puffed our way along tiny gangways and through low doorways into various rooms.  I lost count how many times I banged my noggin.  (It shouldn’t be so big. Eh!! Al.)

Tuesday 23rd November
Mississippi – Home of Jazz and the Blues

While driving into Mississippi we could not believe the total destruction of Hurricane Katrina (2005).    So many empty blocks of land where houses and shops had once stood.   It was sad to see some of the most beautiful Antebellum mansions reduced to a pile of rubble. 

Mississippi is famous for cotton fields and we saw some beauties.  A blanket of white fluff.

Had a hot and steamy walk along Long Beach.   Found a notice board on Biloxi Beach relating to the Civil Rights Wade-Ins era in the early 60’s.  Allen managed to get a photograph of a member of a black family leaning on the post - and then reading it.           ( Amazingly wondering if it was alright to go on the beach!!  )

Buccaneer State Park we checked into this campsite and found out the Park had only just opened a portion of their grounds after being flattened by Katrina.   5 years later the popular water park, wading pool, camp store and picnic areas are still under construction.

  They were hoping to complete all works by the summer of 2011.  {Good luck. Their Spirit is heartening.   These wonderful people never give up.)

St Petersburg to The Panhandle, Florida

Monday 15th November

After hearing rave reviews about Fort De Soto Park, between the Gulf of Mexico and Tampa Bay, we were curious to see for ourselves.  This County Park gets over 3 million visitors each year and after walking around the grounds we were not surprised.  The waterfront sites were beautiful and private.









Within minutes Allen had sniffed out the Gulf Pier and before I knew it, he was doing what he does best, fishing!!  The Pier was equipped with running water, sinks, benches and stiff brushes everything for the fishing fanatic.






I lazed away most of the day watching the dolphins jumping out the water and the pelicans diving in.  I attempted to read my book but unfortunately I got 'bombed' from a great height and NO it's NOT lucky!!  (But it is funny,A.).

Keaton Beach  

Set up camp at the Old Pavilion RV Park - it was a back to nature experience, the showers were in a rustic shack and the toilets were sectioned off by plastic curtains (see-through ones I might add) but such an amazing location right on the beach.

















From the jetty we could see some spooky looking poles with hats and faces on them.   Not sure if they were past campers who out stayed their welcome.

Our coastal travels led us to a couple of wonderful seafood sheds.
The outside of the buildings looked incredibly rough but that was nothing compared to the people inside!  Only kidding.  Never judge a book by the cover.  We are testament to the bucketful of oysters and prawns we consumed, they were out of this world.

Not sure if any of our readers remember the movie Deliverance.....well, we just had to download it and watch it again.  I'm sure it was filmed right here!!

Florida's Forgotten Coast

Landed at St George Island one of Florida's long narrow barrier islands off the Gulf of Mexico.  We camped at the picturesque State Park that had over 9 miles of undeveloped beaches and dunes.

  










Hiked along a 2 mile nature trail through the pine forest and salt marshes.  We photographed some huge paw prints on one of the dunes.  We thought it was a Panther as they live in this area but the Park Ranger said it was a Jaguar.   Whatever it was it had BIG feet.

The St George Lighthouse had a troubled life.  Three earlier Lighthouses were destroyed by a number of heavy storms, tidal surges and a hurricane.   The fourth construction, and hopefully final, was completed in 2008.

Apalachicola


"That Place off 98" is the mastermind of MikeKeller, once a professional golfer now turned restaurateur.  Lunch was beautifully cooked and presented.  Highly recommended by the Gauts.  Clever name too.

Met this high and dry Diver outside the Apalachicola Sponge Company - walked inside this amazing shop that looked like a ship wreck.  Bought a sponge (could only afford one arrh).


Pensacola

The town's war memorial to the fallen servicemen was excellent.

On a lighter note we found this doggy sign in a park - good to see the dogs of Pensacola getting the last woof!!